Rachel Trews…. Vogue 1507

I got this pattern as I adored the top made by Sallieoh…. and when I read this post by Erica Bunker, I decided the trousers could be worth a try.  I tend to sew the same shapes (a line dress) and in general I am relatively conservative.  I like it like that, but also figure its good to try a few unknowns now and then.  I had this 1.25m denim linen for a while (probably 4 years) and so in the spirit of use it/lose it – it was sequestered!

The trousers are pretty straightforward.  I traced the pattern to grade out for my size (between a 16 and 18 – and 12 to 14 at waist)  and as it was a multi-size it made it easier.  When I went to sew it I felt like I sewed it twice.  For such a simple sew, I made a load of mistakes – I kept sewing the pockets to the crotch as the single notch in each caught me out (note use a treble notch for pockets?).  Of course I only did it once, but when I went to fix it, I got the wrong leg and moved the pocket to that crotch….. seriously it was sewing Abbot and Costello.  The rest went well until the zip.  There have been comments online about the difficulty of getting a 6inch open end zip, and I was not going to delude myself I would find one in Galway, so I just bought an 18″ and cut it down.  It took me an age to figure the diagram – the zip I understood but the sewing of the tabs I was not so sure of (now that they are done, I cannot remember what the confusion was!)

The trousers are not fully sewn until after the zip, but I had to baste the sides to figure the fit, I should have basted more, as it was only after the zip and sewing the sides and facings that I realised the fit was not going to work.   So they were put aside for the day.  When I went back to fix – it was relatively quick.  I re-angled the zip (chalk line is original, and basted zip is the better fit),took off back facing and did a sway back adjustment at the centre back.  They fitted fine, so I decided to lower the front yoke and alter the back facing.  The original waist in the pattern is above the natural waist, but it really feels a bit too high for me (and I love high waisted anything), so I brought it all down an inch, hemming the front yoke down, and altering/removing and reusing the back-facing.

They are incredibly comfortable pair of trews and a shape I would probably not even try on in a store!   And they feel store bought probably for that reason as well as that I am rather lazy about detailing, so the detailing here is a novelty.  I pretty much wore them straight from the machine….. and took the photos an hour later, and wore them out that evening.  I love them, and the fabric is perfect.  I am wearing a pattern magic toile top with them (still playing around with the pattern but it seems to ‘go’ well with these trousers).   I have yet to make the other top for it….. but should do in the next few weeks….!

9 thoughts on “Rachel Trews…. Vogue 1507

  1. Linda Wilson says:

    Hi Eimear, I love it when you love something and can wear it hot of the machine! The trousers look great. When I make up trousers I put in the zip before doing anything else. Then there’s no back trouser bulk to get in the way and you can reshape without having to pin the fronts which never wants to sit in the right position anyway?
    Great make.

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  2. theupsew says:

    Thanks Linda. I went with the directions but as they are a pull up then zip up I wasn’t too sure where everything would end up! its a quirky pattern – and it really was a quick sew. I probably sew the zip normally somewhere midway or towards the end out of habit – but will try to sew in first in my next make I can see what you mean, and it sounds a lot more piratical

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    • theupsew says:

      Thank you Lynn…. I tend not to like peg leg trousers as they often seem to have pleats or gathers in the waistband so I think these will be as good as I will get!.. they were a quick sew in reality… and I think it taught me a lesson on better notch marking, re the pockets. The unusual closure did throw me in the fitting, but leaving anything overnight and starting fresh seems to make the difference. They already have a wardrobe staple!

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  3. wrong doll says:

    Ohh .. I really love these on you Eimear – they look to fit you perfectly and if you are anything like me (multiple sizes) this is a rarity when it comes to trews so you should be rightfully proud. Like Lynn above, I too admire your tenacity as too many barriers and I’m quick to throw in the towel but you put things to the side and come back with a creative solution. As usual, I follow about half of what you are saying and then get lost when it gets a bit technical. People are very complimentary about my sewing but really I just pick lovely fabrics and sew straight lines!! You have this arsenal of sewing skills I’m in awe of. And who knows, one day I might actually understand your refashions and ammends to the details. For now, I’m just happy to marvel at the results 🙂

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    • theupsew says:

      I probably made it sound more complicated! I have been told that I assume others know what I am talking ahead, As it was a quick sew, I tore ahead, but the front curve for the pocket was similar to front crotch curve and both had a single notch marking! (if I had looked further down the leg I would have noticed which side was inside leg, but when I tear ahead… well I get tunnel visioned, so I dont know if that explains my silliness. as regards the zip, I cut it shorter and made new stoppers on the top from sewing some tape at the top, so I dont understand why people who made this were trying to source the correct size as this works perfectly, but then again I am impatient. I should have photographed it. I will say, this time I have lovely fabric, it is divine to wear! made them 3 days ago and wore them on two nights out already! I am so glad I tried these!

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      • wrong doll says:

        There’s nothing wrong with your explanations. I just get so easily muddled and find it hard to understand words without pictures and doing. I think I must be quite visual and kinetic. I get what you mean now though and had similar problems with the toile for this puzzle Marcy Tilton dress I am working on. So for the real thing I’ve put a sticky label on each pattern piece as I’ve cut it out detailing what it is. As the material looks the same on both sides this is helping enormously! So glad you are happy with your trews.

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