I have been thinking a lot on sumptuary laws – partly because I am doing some research for a planned project on 17th Century dress, and partly however ever much changes, so much stays the same.
The first example of Sumptuary laws is a curious one
A free-born woman may not be accompanied by more than one female slave, unless she is drunk; she may not leave the city during the night, unless she is planning to commit adultery; she may not wear gold jewellery or a garment with a purple border, unless she is a courtesan; and a husband may not wear a gold-studded ring or a cloak of Milesian fashion unless he is bent upon prostitution or adultery. (Source ‘Wiki’ – The 7th century BCE law text of the Locrians by Zaleucus)
Tudor Era Sumptuary Laws Definition & Social Hierarchy
In general, sumptuary laws are regulations designed to restrict luxury and extravagant consumption, often to reinforce social hierarchies, moral standards, and economic control. So the poor people couldn’t wear fancy clothes, even though they made them… and only royals could wear certain colours and fabrics.
The one I started researching was how under Elizabeth I – In Ireland, wearing of traditional woollen mantles, “open smocks” with “great sleeves”, and native headdresses was banned and Irish people were required to dress in “civil garments” in the English style. I am sure other cultures (colonised or not) have had their traditional dress banned either by law or by stealth.
Matsukaze Workshops: 16th Century Irish Dress
One traditional sumptuary law that endured is ‘the privilège du blanc’ (“the privilege of white”) is a custom of the Catholic Church that permits certain designated female royalty to wear white clothing (traditionally a white dress and white veil) during an audience with the pope.[1] It is an exception to the traditional requirement of women to wear black garments on formal occasions. Newspapers seem to love this one (Photo – royalwatcher.com)
Modern Sumptuary seems to have flipped everything on its head. Historically sumptuary laws banned imports to protect local linen and wool industry – and now we do the opposite (Hello Shein Crap). Historically mended garments were seen as shabby whereas now we are shown examples of King Charles gets his clothes mended (although this is still all a bit niche). Celebrities are applauded for outfit repeating, and yet a lot of people will still feel under pressure to buy something new for a wedding, despite having clothes that they already love, feel comfortable in and fit them, in their wardrobe.
Modern Sumptuary seems to be based on social shaming and slick marketing (I am omitting religious and cultural choices here)
1. Too short, too tight, too provocative, too young
Your dress is not too short, your outfit is not too provocative. If anyone thinks otherwise, they’re probably just a pervert’ Kathri Gebel German Member of Parliament
2. you can’t wear the same outfit to a different wedding/party/whatever
Your outfit was chosen by you and shows your sartorial style. If someone else is keeping tabs on your outfit repeating – this is not the validation you need.
3. cheap is good
Cheap is nasty and most likely a horrible synthetic coated in chemicals, and made in horrid conditions, and responsible for at least 8% of emissions.
4. must have micro trends
Fashion is a form of ugliness so intolerable that we have to alter it every six months (Oscar Wilde). Micro trends are designed to fall apart in two weeks
5.Treat yourself, you deserve it (pay day buy)
You deserve good quality clothing and not being conned into a once a week buy. You deserve natural fibres, and well made, clothes that are designed to be laundered and worn a whole heap of times, and that you feel comfortable in. This is your money and should not be used to make some fast fashion company richer
Any rules to add here?
upsew 