This is the most expensive pattern I have ever bought! ….. and I am beginning to be a fan of Pauline Trigere. I also love coats so thought at least this was a 3 for 1 pattern. I also thought I would do the dress first as it was probably easier than jacket/coat.(not so famous last words)
The bodice takes up a little bit more fabric than you would think (or I would think), so getting the right fabric, with right amount from a secondhand piece of clothing was the next hurdle (as in the pile of stuff on the chair beside mannequin). I did have an orange wrap skirt 100% viscose which I did first and then a blue silk wrap skirt as the next one.
I made the pattern to the envelope size, even though I am size or two larger on hips (classic pear). The skirt fits me – but just about. I thought if I made it to the envelope size it would give a truer indication of design, and then either i could finish for someone else to wear or use the fabric for something else.
The orange dress has the perfect weight for the dress, and ultimately the only issue I had were the facings – I used interfacing on autopilot where I shouldn’t have, and they did not fit as well (I cheated and used a seam on centre back and front). Straps are still pinned on as the facings will be redone.
The dress is flat-lined which is something I have never done before (strangely enough), and it gave good weight and form to the bodice, which is a simple but a very effective cut. The fit of the bodice is great especially when you consider there are only 2 darts used. There is a short underskirt underneath, and a waist stay. The skirt has a small amount of gathers so I thought up-sizing would be little issue and if anything should be easier as there would be more fabric to gather in larger size.
The blue dress is a light silk (so I starched it plenty before I started!). The interfacing went on easily by stretching the bodice, and I decided I would also add the pockets for this dress (so handy). I am still undecided about the blue dress as the silk is so light I now think I could have used a heavier lining fabric, whereas the weight of the orange dress is perfect. I am unsure also about the extra gathers and wonder if soft pleats could work better………………….. so I didn’t hem this one yet either!
3 thoughts on “McCalls 7530 – Pauline Trigere Dress skirt to dress”
I think the gathers in the blue dress will always attract more attention because the fabric is shiny.
Although I have to say that they really change the look of the design, which on the illustration and your first dress looks like one of those slightly-gathered-at-the waistline pencil skirts.
The effect may be less when the starch is washed out but than the light weight of the the fabric will show even more.
It may just be a question of the wrong fabric for this design…
And about the orange dress: If it just fits at the hip, can't you let out the side seams there just a bit? It's a lovely dress and it would be a shame if you couldn't wear it.
Thank you very much Lauriana, you are so right, I think the shine does draw attention to the gathers more – as well as the dress design does not call for as many gathers in the first place, but I am also glad I gave it a try as I would not have known otherwise. The line of the orange one is more sophisticated (the look I was aiming for). I will tweak the side seams, and the dress should get out this winter, especially as the jacket has been made and the coat is in my project queue! thanks again for your comment, its great to get another opinion.
I agree, I think if you did more of the hip shaping on the blue (larger-sized) dress with the side seams rather than allover volume that has to be gathered in, you will get something truer to the original design. Thus speaketh someone who always has to allow for her hips! 😉
But the blue is gorgeous and I really like the bodice, and the red version is indeed elegant. All the things you've done from this pricey pattern look expensive, so it's been worth it!