Category: cardigan

pfaff 91 and quick run up

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A few years ago I was teaching sewing and if attendees wished, they could bring in their own sewing machines – which was useful as some had machines they could not use.  Most times its mainly that the machines were family (mother/grandmother) machines and they ended up having them, or the machine was bought with the intention of learning to sew.   One woman had the most gorgeous Pfaff which was over 60 years old.  She was unable to use it, so she brought it along to find out how to use it.  It really was such an advanced machine, and considering its age, it must have been the rolls royce of its day, it had a wonderful sound, and a load of decorative stitches and still managed to look understated.  Anytime I was setting up the machine to show her anything on it, I was loathed to stop sewing on it!

So when I was browsing machines, this caught my eye.  It was not quite like the other pfaff, much simpler, but the look of it was so simple and I thought the simple finish rather appealing and ‘what the hell’ I bought it!  I was also taken by the year of purchase, 1967 – I have a special interest in machines of this time as its my birth year, and subconsciously I am thinking, look how well this machine looks for its age, look how well it works……..The machine had this cute case, like air hostess luggage, and the attachments and original book and receipt.

When it arrived, the plastic pieces had cracked.  – however, as old plastic can be brittle and its only the front plate and button (in the back of my mind I figure it could ultimately be 3d printed and interm fixed with sugru) so I overlooked these as the mechanics were ‘the thing’.  So off to test – and the feed dogs were half frozen – they moved back and forwards, but not up and down.  (I did get a partial refund from seller when I send a video of the feed in action).  I got it serviced (I did look at the mechanism but did not want to mess about with it myself too much) and now its working well.

Its a good machine and the big appeal here was the free arm, as I like the idea of using this one for a lot of sewing.   I have done a few jobs on it and its good.  I am getting used to it, and the only think I am noticing is the feed, while its perfectly fine, its fractionally less than my other machines.  Its a tiny tiny issue, and its really still me getting a feel for the machine, but if I was to compare it the the Elna, the Elna wins re stitch and feed, but then again if I was to compare it to my own Singer Excell that I have had since 1989 they are on a par (the feed of the Excell can be a bit ‘clampy’ whereas the pfaff is a bit light – and Morgan who serviced the machine said he raised the feed dogs slightly so it must have been lighter again).

I really do like the look of this machine (shallow I know), the extension tray is very handy, and although I prefer a top loading bobbin, this one is not fiddly to change so that’s great.  Interestingly it also has a plate that can be turned upside down for darning (ie it covers the feed-dogs)   It doesn’t have a seam guide but I have put some tape there.

One project I did run up on it was this blouse (its a free download).  I had to go to a ‘thing’ last week and it was a bit formal so I wore my grey wool trousers, a yellow cardigan (reworked a few months ago) and figured what would work well with it – would be a white blouse.  I was under a bit of time pressure (needed it the next day) so I figured I would try fabric shop, charity shop, regular shop in that order.  In the fabric shop there was this white fabric and it was perfect (I even bought extra once I found out it was on sale) and ran this one up.  Its a lovely pattern and useful top and I felt rather smug that sewing this took less time than wandering around shops trying stuff on.  The fabric has great weight, but also has a small percentage of spandex which give some softness.

The yellow cardigan was an upcycle I have been messing about with since December and finished last month and worn loads since.  It is a mans knit which I got and used wear (while all the time trying to figure a more flattering cut).  I recut to a round neck cardi with a tie at the neck, and I half lined it – there was the intention to so some beading or embroidery but I as I still seem to favour plain, I left it for the while.  The ties could have been made a bit longer, and I still have fabric, so am wearing as is for the while.  The ties this length are less fussy so I like them this way.  I attached the bands at the front in a slightly clunky way at the neck – as I changed my approach half way.  Its a little off and I think in only a way I would notice, but as its a first time try out with this pattern I am pleased and the main change I would make in the next is to have the back side seams 1cm in.

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toasty sweaters and plaid skirt

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I have been sewing quite a bit lately, and as I am easier sewing than writing about it,  I am only getting around to this post now…..(I never liked writing in school – I can touch type, but the minute I start I seem to forget what I meant to say.) Conversely,  this blog has been brilliant for me to have a focus my sewing projects – so I have grouped the last few completed sews!

As usual, my great sewing plan is shifting, which is usual, as sometimes when I take apart items there is less fabric than anticipated (ie what worked out perfectly on paper is compromised in reality).

The first for remake was this fine wool dress.  This dress was on the clearance rail in the charity shop (still can never believe what ends up on this rail).  The dress would have worked perfectly if it was either 1983, or I still had a 23″ waist, and as neither was true, I thought to try out the SewHouse7 Toaster Sweater.  The only cut issue was the sleeves, but I figured I could cut them and sew with minimum seam allowance so I trimed half the seam allowance from the armholes of the arm-scythes also, and I would also have to leave the plackets in place on the sleeves until the end.

purple-toast - sweater upcycle

I don’t know if this is the same for everyone, but sometimes I will sew like its a race to finish…..and not try on till the end (how bright is that) so all was well until I tried it on pre-hemming, and noticed that a sleeve was in backwards….. the placket was the wrong way, but I also noticed the funnel didn’t sit up at all as the knit was so fine, and it was inclined to stretch across, so I decided to pop some iron-on vilene to the neckline facings.  The sleeves are very long so I just hemmed them and put a button to stitch a ‘closure’.  The hems are a herring bone stitch, I tried a few and this one seemed to look best on the fabric.

I was curious how it would look on a heavier fabric, and had been dithering over the re-make of this bobble wool cardigan. It was a cardigan coat which was donated to the charity shop without its collar (poppers for it still in place) and had been much used so it was a bit pilled, a bit pulled and had a few holes.  It is 75% wool and the fabric was still in mainly good shape, despite dragged buttonholes!

bobble-toastOriginally it was to be a simple sleeved a-line shift with patch pockets based on a tunic pattern from 2 years ago, but I wasn’t happy with the way how it would  cut out and patched together.  Luckily I left it fro a day or two as I decided to try the toast pattern again.  Realistically I don’t need this many sweaters, so I was also deciding on who to try and give them to (still working on this) but I also really like these sweaters.  I was well glad I didn’t do the tunic as there would have been too many seams and the bobbles in the fabric shift a bit while sewing.  Toast#2 worked out well with the heavy fabric, both sweaters are lovely and incredibly quick to run up.

And there is fabric left over from both! I am thinking of a tablet sleeve from the bobble leftovers.

I had also ‘pulled’ out the embroidery arm of the machine as I have to do some Irish dance costume tests, so I started messing about with motifs and what else it does.. (and then got even more way-laid by embroidering tea-towels – housewarming gift to a wine sommelier! I have put the photos below).

embroidered tea towels.............

The scallop skirt I made last year I love, but the grey feels a bit severe and ‘work-y’ so I gave it to my sister (so far a hit).  I had this plaid scrap.  Its a funny plaid, originally I thought it was from an old school uniform, but the wool is such a fine quality, I now don’t think so.  It was from a bundle of wool scrap in the charity shop and ther was less than a metre with two chunks missing.  I patched it back together and cut the pattern out.  I did embroidery on the skirt but I really wasn’t sure of what I wanted or what way it would turn out, but I also knew thinking about it would not achieve much either.  Its done now and not what I wanted.  Originally I was going to pattern the motif but changed to a more concentrated motif.  I shoulda / coulda done a more grid or linear one, and think I would have preferred that, but am quite happy with this.  I love the simple shape of the skirt.  Such an effective pattern.

 

plaid-scallop-skirt

 

and finally – I got a new shears! (yipeeeee) The small Janome set I have are still good despite the taped handle, and not retired just yet.   I have been trying to buy a proper shears for some years but never found one I liked that cut right and felt right.  When I saw Ernest and Wright were to be at the Knit and Stitch this year, I hi-tailed it up and bought this…. and 2 other smaller fancy ones (I could have bought everything!).  I had dithered between the 12 and 10inch but as my cutting table is small (160cmx90cm) and my cuts are small (ie, not long lays of fabric) so I would be lifting the scissors more, I settled on the 10inch (which is realistically a better weight for me).  Its gorgeous and incredibly comfortable and love using it.  My brother in law saw it later that day, and called it a ‘colt 45’….. (I was feeling very smug indeed).

Claires Scissors and the Colt 45

 

 

 

 

 

the best laid plans – future projects and cashmere sweater.

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at the beginning of the year, I went through all the fabrics,/stash, and acquired charity shop buys and I made a plan to try and get through them.  Stash is about 12 x  half, 1 and 2 metre lots with 1 x 3 metre piece.  I divided everything by colour and then drew up some’ little ladies’ and had a plan for each month pretty much until August, and beyond.

For the most part this has been helpful to keep me focused and I can still update each month if any better options come to mind.  For all the remakes I have been doing – 50% have been trouble free and straightforward, and the other 50% have had to have a re-think, where there was insufficient fabric for the pattern (happens the most), or the design didn’t look right for the fabric.   Of these, most will go according to the new plan – however some do not. and these few are the ones I spend an obscene amount of time trying to make right before they work or I admit defeat…


May is not going to plan, at all, and I am having a week of it at the moment.  Two patterns I tried out on a whim are going a breeze, and one pair of trousers are going decidedly south (so they are being put away for the next while as they are breaking my heart) – and yet the piece I was supposed to be doing was still on the mannequin last Thursday waiting…..

refashion sweater to cardigan


its a pink cashmere sweater that came to a standstill – which is why this post is being posted a few days late…………When I got this sweater, I saw cashmere and the quality felt okay, and the size a little big, it was stained and had a hole in the underarm seam, and I bought it for 4euro.  When I got home, it went straight to the basin.   I am not too squeamish but I was surprised by how grubby this jersey was.   I did Home Ecc/Domestic Science in school, and amongst other things (like cooking sheeps heart…..), in one class we were taught how to wash a wool sweater.  At the time, I thought the nuns were leading me to a life of indenture and servitude and was not very impressed, whereas now I realised the value of these lessons (although I will pass on the sheeps heart!).  After laundering the sweater (and the dash of vinegar in rinse) it came up a treat and the cashmere got back its buttery softness – ah bliss!




I cut it to make a cardigan, trimming very little from the neck, cutting up a centre front, taking about 4 inches from sleeves and hem.  I hand hemmed using an ‘internal’  hand sewn zig zag stitch to keep it flat.  the thickness of the cashmere concealed the stitch (which was just as well as the thread is not an exact match.   

refashion sweater to cardigan



My original idea was to crochet and sew on an elaborate trim in orange like a matador jacket, for the neck, front and hem edges and the cuffs – a bit of a grandiose idea, and I even dyed some left over mixed-silk yarn (daft I know) from the poncho last year.  I crocheted a swatch in red and a swatch in orange as I was unsure of the orange, and in the end I didn’t think either would work as  ‘the elaborate border’ so went the more conservative route of a simple trim.  

Also as the yarn was originally 2 shades (and the yarn was made of 2 fingering weights, one linen pale, and one silk which was darker? I had to later separate them and used the darker silk yarn (and a 2.5 hook).  I stitched a blanket stitch on the inside in same colour embroider thread to hold the trim.   The cardigan is trimmed with some rows of single stitch, then one row fillet, and some single stitch.  I added a line of shells to the cuff.  A very simple re-do, but takes a bit longer with a 2.5 hook!

Meanwhile…………………



The other piece that fell by the wayside this month is my planned  galatzine coat.  I was going to use some dress linen but think the weight is too light.  I did a toile (the toile was cut from the lining pattern as it was intended on being the lining) from a sheet and put it in the orange dye (its pretty awful and came out a very lurid shade.).  The toile has a lovely fit, but as the entire coat is cut on the bias I will think about it some more, If I interline it, I could lose the quality of the linen, and I wanted a lighter weight summer coat.  I did put a post on we sew retro asking if anyone had made it (no one had) and there was the suggestion of just going for a heavier weight which I am now reluctantly agreeing with….I am thinking of trying a simpler coat with the linen…..

pillar to post, cardigan to poncho

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Some years ago, I learned how to crochet properly.  and the one thing about crochet, for me at least is, it instills patience, and shows that all mistakes can be undone.  Another nice thing about crochet is that you are making the garment and fabric up at the same time and if you crochet in the round, you can try on as you go and wear when you do the last stitch!  


Crochet turned out to be easier than I thought, the big bit is learning to hold the yarn correctly, its like the tension control of a sewing machine, (thanks to Collette Burke for showing me that) and after mastering that and the chain stitch, my sister Eithne (a left handed crochet-er) showed me the double and treble stitch – all you need is to know are the 2 stitches, and everything else is a variant after that.  

I was very precious of all pieces crocheted at first but over time, if I didn’t wear them, they were frogged and remade to something else,all garments becoming functional storage for yarn!  It is not to difficult to unmake a homemade item, but its a bit trickier to undo a store bought, so I rarely try.  When I saw this cardigan in the charity shop I was drawn to the quality of the yarn , the cardigan was a bit pulled in places, and also.had a stain, but when you unravel yarn, these parts can be taken out then.  This cardigan yarn was quite luxurious being a mix of cotton, silk and linen, so it would drape well (cotton) and have some warmth to it (silk) and yet have a coolness (linen) – the best of all three, so worth a try.  

It came apart well enough, there was some yarn lost due to a strange stain on sleeve that didn’t come out.  The cardigan was machine knitted with two shades of yarn (you can see there is a small piece beside the balls of yarn), the darker yarn stayed at the front and the lighter to the back so when it unravelled, I got the two yarns together so its more of a tweed effect.  I could have split them back into two, but that would have halved the amount so I thought the tweed would be fine for a multi-functioning poncho wrap, and perfect for my sister Eithne who is blond and suits these shades, and also dislikes wool (in scarves as they can be scratchy), and likes the drape of cotton, and has some very early morning starts this winter.

so with the help of buttons,  its now a shrug, poncho, cardigan, scarf combo…………………the photos below were taken in natural light, so are slightly darker, whereas the ones on top were taken with flash so are lighter.  the silk in the yarn reflects light easily.

If you wish to have a copy of this pattern, please use the contact form and include your email address and I will forward it to you –please note this pattern is a first draft.  I have put it in chart format as I prefer charts. I have done some small charts of the pattern, and not the full thing, so you can increase the diamond pattern to the amount you would prefer.  There are written instructions for the charts on the last page.

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